Deborah Polaski on the deck
of the "Titanic" in Firenze's Tristan.

A lesson in chic at the
Audrey Hepburn Museum in Firenze

   

  The outside of the Rome Opera looks like a recently-renovated middle school. The inside, though, looks "the way you think about opera in the bathtub."

A furtive photo of one of the dreamy
"Vigili del Fuoco" found in the
vicinity of every Italian theater

 

parterre box, the queer opera zine